Thursday, December 19, 2024

Steve Flowers: Inside the Statehouse: The Bright Star – an Alabama institution

  By far the most legendary restaurant in Alabama is The Bright Star in Bessemer.  The famous establishment is iconic for not only its fabulous food but also for its hospitality.

  It is a landmark of Alabama's history.  The Bright Star is the place to see and be seen.  Anybody who is famous and well-connected in Alabama politics eats at The Bright Star when they are in Birmingham.  It is a regular place to gather for Jefferson, Tuscaloosa, and Walker County politicos.  

  It has also been the favorite eating location for legendary Alabama football coaches Paul “Bear” Bryant and Nick Saban. In fact, there are private dining booths named the Bear Bryant Room and Nick Saban Room. In recent years, Alabama men's basketball coach, Nate Oats, has become a regular.  He has become close friends with the heir apparent owner, Andreas Anastassakis.

  Greek families have been the lords of all the famous restaurants in Alabama. The Bright Star may be the brightest star in the history of Alabama fine dining. However, if they have had a rival in past years, it was the magnificent Elite Restaurant in downtown Montgomery. The Elite was run by the Xides family. Ed Xides ran an impeccable restaurant. They and the famous Sahara Restaurant in Montgomery were excellent, but both closed decades ago.

  The Bright Star continues to shine. It makes every culinary list of favorite Birmingham restaurants every year. It dominates every list in every category. Two brothers, Jimmy and Nicky Koikos, have continued the magnificent heritage of excellence at the Bessemer landmark for the last 50 years. Jimmy passed away from cancer a few years ago.  Nicky continues to manage the fine eatery. He is there every day at age 78.

  The Bright Star is in its 118th year. The restaurant opened in 1907 with only a horseshoe-shaped bar.  It opened its doors to the bustling coal mining community of Jefferson County that year. It moved three times in the early years. The Bright Star moved to its present location in downtown Bessemer in 1915. The original marble floors and marble walls exist today. Can you imagine how majestic and elegant this place was to diners in early 20th century Bessemer? Another unique interior feature at The Bright Star is its array of murals painted by a European artist passing through Bessemer and restored to their original brightness in 2010.

  Good service and high-quality cuisine have perpetuated The Bright Star’s reputation for excellence. Fresh seafood is delivered daily from the Gulf Coast. Only the finest cuts of steak available are served. The Bright Star’s longtime dedication to culinary excellence was recognized on the national stage in 2010, when it was named one of “America’s Classics” by the James Beard Foundation at a ceremony in New York City.

  The fine food and service make it a delightful place to eat, but what I love about the place is its history and family legacy. When you see Nicky Koikos, you can look over his shoulder at portraits of his mother and father, who ran the restaurant for decades prior to Nicky and Jimmy. Jimmy and Nicky Koikos took over the reins in the 1970s. They were keeping it in the family. Nephew Andreas Anastassakis and niece Stacey Cocoris Craig have come on board to take over. Andreas is also the Chief Master Chef.

  The walls of the great Bright Star are adorned with photographs of some of the most famous people in America, like Sandra Bullock. However, it is practically a museum of University of Alabama football legends, who ate there regularly, including legends who won lots of national championships like Bear Bryant, Nick Saban, Gene Stallings, and greats like Joe Namath, Johnny Musso, and John Hannah to name a few. Even the legendary Bright Star maître d' of 46 years, Marlon, is cousins with Marlon Humphrey and Bobby Humphrey. Bryant used to call him “Speedy.”

  Some of my fondest memories are having dinner at The Bright Star with two of our iconic U.S. Senators, Judge Howell Heflin and Senator Richard Shelby. Shelby and Heflin both considered The Bright Star their favorite Alabama restaurant. 

  It is a merry place to visit at Christmas.


  About the author: Steve Flowers is Alabama’s leading political columnist. His weekly column appears in over 60 Alabama newspapers. He served 16 years in the state legislature. Steve may be reached at Steveflowers.us. He can also be found on Facebook and X.

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